By Franz Scheurer
The Bennelong restaurant at the Opera House certainly has had its difficulties, and it has been a long time since the heady days of Bilson and Kyritsis. The latest incarnation, Guillaume at Bennelong, finally does our icon justice.
Sitting inside the restaurant one cannot help but be awed by the incredible structure and the wonderful city views. I especially like the bar area at the top, where the Harbour Bridge spans the horizon, framed by the incredible geometric lines of the Opera House and its forecourt.
They serve bar food, small plates at affordable prices and there is a good list of cocktails and spirits. To bring an out of town visitor to this bar, have a few nibbles, some of the super-yummy crab sandwiches or a cheese platter and take in the views of this magnificent city of ours is certainly a good option.
The real indulgence, though, is eating at the restaurant. Although you are sitting right on the harbour the view is actually back toward the CBD and it’s an impressive vista. The atmosphere is relaxed, warm and you can easily hold a conversation, the spacing of the tables guaranteeing you privacy. Chairs and banquettes are terrific (comfortable for wide, narrow, tall and short customers), table and glassware excellent and temperature and background music just right.
The menu is well written, appetizing and there’s something for everybody. Guillaume’s famous ‘Basil Infused Tuna’ served with mustard seed and soy vinaigrette is a great dish, both visually and in the mouth. The ‘Sealed Harvest Springs Bay Scallops’ served on a confit of leek topped with Avruga (a modified herring product, resembling roe) is texturally terrific. The ‘Western Australian Crab Meat’ on a bed of avocado, coriander and capsicum coulis marries beautifully sweet crab with the rustic flavours of capsicum. This is a wonderful combination and suits a light eater perfectly.
For mains we liked the ‘Slow Braised Veal
Tongue’ presented in a consommé served with enoki mushrooms
and baby bok choy and let me tell you about the ‘Beef Daube’. This fantastic
dish is made with beef cheeks; they are sealed and marinated for 24
hours in red wine, cooked for 4 hours, rested for 24 hours and cooked again for
4 hours slowly. Served in its own jus with fresh pasta and baby vegetables.
It’s an absolute feast! The serve is very generous indeed and it’s sumptuous
with great depth of flavour and one of the best dishes in this city at the
moment.
Desserts, so often a restaurant’s weak point, are excellent here.
I won’t spoil the surprise, all I’ll say is “try them all!”
Service is attentive, knowledgeable and timing is impeccable. The
wine list is a work of art, comprehensive and showcases both local and overseas
wines at reasonable prices. In fact, value for money is good throughout and
this surely is one of the grandest dining spaces on earth.
Score: 9/10
For more information or bookings:
Guillaume at Bennelong
Sydney Opera House
02 9241 1999