By Franz Scheurer
A very clever name for a fish bistro, indeed! Billingsgate Market was
established in the streets around Billingsgate Wharf in London in 1698 and
although now at a different location, it’s still London’s Fish Market and going
strong today.
But back to our Billingsgate, the old Balzac site, which has recently
undergone a bit of an overhaul in the kitchen and on the floor. The menu is
more focused and appetizing than ever, and still changes continually, with the
availability of produce, keeping it fresh and seasonal. Being a fish bistro it
naturally is fish-heavy but there is a token meat entrée and main course.
Wade Brown is the new chef, another gifted ex-Banc boy, doing a fine job,
which is complemented by Grant McIntyre’s efficiency and enthusiasm on the
floor.
We tried the ‘Salt and Pepper Squid with Fried Shallot and Soy Chilli
Dipping Sauce’ ($16), the ‘Carpaccio of Yellow Fin Tuna with a Tart Fin of
Tomatoes, Rocket and Parmesan’ ($16) and the ‘Salad of Spanner Crab, Fennel and
Blood Orange’ ($15) for our entrées. All three dishes presented very well. The
squid was perfectly cooked and nicely spiced, the quality of the tuna exemplary
and the salad refreshing and beautifully balanced. For mains we tasted the ‘Fillet of Bream with Lyonnaise Potatoes
and Caper Beurre Noisette’ ($25), the ‘Hiramasa Kingfish with Warm Honey and
Hazelnut Soused Vegetables’ ($26) and the token meat dish, the ‘Beef
Bourguignon Pie with Shoestring Fries’ ($26). These mains were every bit as
good as the entrées, appetizingly presented and full of flavour. The crisp skin
of the bream in perfect harmony with the soft, gooey, oniony potatoes, the
flakey pastry contrasting with the gelatinous, rich filling of the pie and the
soused vegetables a tipsy dream of flavour enhancing the fish sitting on top.
Billingsgate Fish Bistro has been good right from the start and always
excellent value. I feel that the food has moved up a notch with Wade running
the kitchen and service has never been better with Grant making guests feel
welcome and loved throughout the meal. I wish this place was in my suburb!
We finished our meal with a couple of ‘Bread and Butter Puddings’ ($12),
made in a very French ‘pudding’ style, which were absolutely delicious - a must
try when you’re there.
They are licensed with a terrifically quirky but appropriate, small and
well-priced wine list, and allow BYO wine on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and
Thursdays. We really enjoyed our meal, the restaurant’s simple bistro atmosphere
and friendly service. If you’re after some good, deceptively simple but very
tasty food you should definitely give it a go.
Score: 7.5/10
For more information:
Billingsgate Fish Bistro
38-40 St. Paul’s Street
Randwick
Tel.: 02 9398 1011