By Franz Scheurer
The Hemmes family’s success in the
hospitality industry has absolutely nothing to do with luck but is a result of
unequalled passion, sheer determination, great business systems and an
unshakeable belief that the customer is king.
John Hemmes (everyone calls him Mr. John) is
a widely read, interested in everything kind-a-guy, looking and acting half his
age and still putting in more hours each day than he would ask of any of his
employees. As he put it to his staff: if you can’t be bothered to smile then
don’t bother coming to work. This shows in the attitude of the staff. They are
genuinely friendly, efficient and helpful and yes, they do make the customer
feel like a king!
Eating lunch at Bistro CBD I’m surprised just
how contemporary the décor still is. This is a fabulous space for a business
lunch, comfortable, spacious, clean and modern but with enough warmth to make
you shed some stress. Menus and wine lists arrive immediately, specials are
announced up front and a drink arrives within minutes, Nigel Butement has the
floor under control.
Recently appointed executive chef James
Privett is in charge of the kitchen and the food is modern bistro fare,
squarely aimed at the business clientele. Oysters are sourced from wherever
they’re best on the day and shucked to order. A ‘Tartar of wagyu beef’ ($22) is
excellent, although I question the presentation, hiding the tartar under the
crisp rusks of bread. ‘Sauté lambs brains with globe artichokes, peas and
beurre noisette’ ($17) needs salt but the artichokes are terrific. A classic
and very French ‘Rabbit, chicken, almond and confit garlic terrine with
cornichons & sourdough toast’ ($18) is the best entrée for my money but I
reckon the girls would prefer the very light ‘Crabmeat, peach and roquette
salad with celery & hazelnut vinaigrette ($24).
For mains we tried the ‘Pork tongue braised
in red wine’ ($27), grilled and served with asparagus & roast onion. Although the flavours were good, the texture
of the meat was not; it tasted to me as if the tongue was left to cool in its
skin before being peeled. The ‘Crisp skinned Atlantic salmon filet with sauté
fennel & witlof with tarragon & salmon roe vinaigrette’ ($33) was
competent and presented well.
We finished our meal with a selection of
desserts. The ‘Valrhona chocolate tart with pedro ximinez (sic) black sherry
& almond praline’ ($14) didn’t excite me, zero chocolate flavour, sickly
sweet, sitting on a slightly greasy pastry; neither did the vanilla bean brulee
with pistachio tuille ($14). But the ‘Summer
fruits with chamboard and lime granita’ ($14) is a knockout. Presented in a
glass it is refreshing in both flavour and looks and it is an innovative
dessert. It is however had to eat with a regular, broad dessertspoon.
Why do we spell rocket and fillet the French
way? There are a few French words that ‘snuck in’ … oh … check your spelling of
that famous sweet sherry.
The food is competent, well-presented, good
value for money and very appropriate for the predominately business crowd. It
comes out of the kitchen hot, fast and furious, however, to my palate, it lacks
soul.
The wine list is small but well chosen. If
you like digestives, you will be impressed by the list of Cognacs and Armagnacs
with a couple of good Calvados and Ports thrown in.
Score: 6.5/10
For more information or bookings:
Bistro CBD
75 York Street
Sydney
Tel: 02 8297 7010