Bondi’s Brown Sugar

By Franz Scheurer

Away form the hubbub of Bondi’s beachfront, but within easy walking distance, this casual modern Australian restaurant draws the crowds, and rightly so. With its beach liberated attitude and a mix of arty and down-to-earth décor, it’s a comfortable food-and-wine-focused oasis amidst the plenitude of platitudes. Good food at a reasonable price is not easily found in a transient suburb like Bondi, but Neil and Lianne Gottheiner have achieved ‘foodie status’ at Brown Sugar without breaking the bank.

Bare tables with good serviettes, casual service with an exemplary wine list, and daily food according to seasonality and availability displayed on a blackboard, meet an acceptable noise level, a casual but appreciative patronage all wrapped in an unmistakable Kiwi accent. I really like the collection of colourful glass jars!

First thing I must point out: the food is terrific, modern, generous and full of flavour and the wine list is one of the best boutique lists I have seen anywhere. Not only does the wine list work extremely well with the style of food, it’s also a fascinating read, making it very hard for the wine addict to choose. Entrées may include seared scallops on a couple of dollops of parsnip purée and sublime gnocchi with tomato and basil sugo and smoked mozzarella. Mains are the likes of a perfectly seared New York cut steak (served blue as ordered) with braised eschalots and shiitakes or seared ocean trout with fatoush salad, za’atar and labne. The signature dish of fish pie with leek and truffle oil is reminiscent of the one at the Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay. Desserts all sound terrific, using seasonal fruit and ingredients like Pedro Ximenez and Frangelico. A cheese course completes the journey.

The wine list, divided into Sparkling Sugar, White Sugar, Red Sugar, Sweet Sugar, Beers, Spirits, Cocktail (singular) and Soft, includes the likes Wilson Vineyard Polish Hill Riesling, Lage George Viognier, The Wooing Tree Pinot Noir and Cargo Road Zinfandel casually listed amongst Pirie Pinot Gris and Boambola Bunya Bunya from Wagga. Particularly astounding considering most wines are in the $40 bracket.

Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner with very helpful, casual, informed staff. Do I like Brown Sugar? You bet I do!

Score: 7/10

For more information and bookings:

Brown Sugar

106 Curlewis Street

Bondi NSW 2026

Tel.: 02 9130-1566