Cottage Point Inn

By Franz Scheurer

Cottage Point Inn’s location right on the water at the junction of Cowan Waters and Coal and Candle Creek, surrounded by the Kuringai National Park, seems a million miles from anywhere but in fact it is only about 50 minutes from the CBD by car or a mere 20 minutes by seaplane from Rose Bay.

However close to the big smoke it may be this is a true haven of tranquillity, forcing you into a different mind-space. Terrifically, there’s only very marginal mobile phone signals strength, making it easier to switch off. The views from the restaurant are spectacular and weather permitting make sure you get a table outside on the deck.

Originally the Cottage Point Boatshed, the building was converted into a restaurant in the 1970s. The current owner, Mr. Dan McKinnon has a nose for buying wine. The wine list is an absolute treasure trove of roads less travelled but greatly enjoyed. Feel like a Lake George Pinot Noir? No problems. Maybe a Sauvignon Blanc from Tumbarumba? Easy, the Mannus will do just perfectly.

Chef Kevin Kendall has been there for eight years and during his reign the food has always been good. However in Kevin’s own words ‘he’s grown up’ and the last couple of times I ate his food it was simply superb.

On offer is the standard menu, a degustation option and a vegetarian option.

The ‘Chilli Salted Cuttlefish with Green Tea Noodles and a Sweet Ginger & Lychee Dressing’ is a knock-out. The texture of the cuttlefish is crunchy to the bite melting softly in the mouth and all the flavours work perfectly. The ‘Deep Sea Scallops & Pancetta on Pea Colcannon with Orange & Cardamom Beurre Blanc’ is one of the most enjoyable dishes I have eaten in a very long time and is the Australian Gourmet Pages ‘Dish of the Month’ for December 2003. Perfectly sweet, plump scallops, meltingly soft, sitting on top of perfectly crisp pancetta that is not too salty, both covering a ring of fabulous robust pea colcannon that is a feast in itself. With just the right amount of a very fragrant beurre blanc this is a dish alone makes the journey to Cottage Point worthwhile. Kevin also displays considerable talent in his salads. A ‘Three Leaf Salad with Vine-Ripened Tomatoes, Cucumber, Soft Feta Cheese & Balsamic Vinegar’ is exactly as described with tasty, ripe tomatoes and the ‘Salad of Butter Lettuce & Witlof with Corella Pear, Roasted Walnuts, Parmesan & an Orange and Vanilla Bean Dressing’ presents extremely well due to the use of red witlof and the flavours marry wonderfully.

Kevin’s mains are just as good. The ‘Blue Eye Cod with Marinated Kipfler Potatoes, Fried Capers, Citrus Salad & Anchovy on a Potato & Chive Sauce’ is excellent, as is the ‘Atlantic Salmon Fillet, Pan Seared, with Nori & Dashi Salt, Baby Bok Choy, Sweet & Sour Cucumbers & Ginger Juices’. This guy can cook fish; I just wish he wouldn’t call Blue Eye, a member of the Trevalla family, ‘Blue Eye Cod’. I personally adore the ‘Roast Lamb Fillets with Chestnut Tagliatelle, Sautéed English Spinach, Bacon Chips & Caramelised Eschalots & Parsley Juice’, an intelligent combination, a light touch and lots of flavour.

Desserts present well and taste great. The ‘Raspberry Soufflé’ is as good as it looks, the vanilla ice cream is great and the ‘Crème Brûlėe’ served in a large, flat dish giving the dessert more surface area to caramelise.

Service is knowledgeable, relaxed and very friendly but needs a little polish. Our pre-dinner glasses and bottle weren’t cleared when the food arrived and there was no salt on our table (there was plenty on the empty table next to us). Minor points, I know, but when the food is this good the front of house needs to match the effort.

Combine the location with the view, the ambience, the food, and the wine and you end up a very happy and sated little vegemite.

Score: 7.5/10

For more information or bookings:

Cottage Point Inn

2 Anderson Place

Cottage Point NSW 2084

Tel.: 02 9456 1011