Etch Restaurant Rocks!

By Franz Scheurer

Justin North is one of Sydney’s most talented chefs and his food is challenging and divine. At his new restaurant Etch, inside the Intercontinental Hotel, he makes his food more accessible at a more affordable price point and to put it mildly:

Etch rocks!

The long, narrow room with its beautiful, cathedral-like windows and white walls on one side and pale, blue-green wallpaper with small, gilt-edge framed pictures on the other, is lit by small, angled lights on the columns and overhead lamps in huge, round lampshades. The white, ornate service cupboards look very French and the whole atmosphere is warm, cosy and European. There is an upstairs backroom, along the same theme, with glorious, colourful, freestanding lamps and everything just fits marvellously. I honestly did not believe that this space could ever look so good.

The menu is short and simple and the wine list is comprehensive and adventurous. Try the ‘Deep fried skate knobs with lemons and caper aioli’ ($9) or the ‘Fried goats’ cheese with vanilla and lavender scented honey’ ($9) as appetisers while you make up your mind what you want to order. I suggest a Negroni or a Campari Soda to accompany these.

For entrées we loved a daily special of ‘Marinated trout with zucchini flowers’ ($20) and the ‘Crispy spiced local squid with sweet paprika mayonnaise’ ($18). Both dishes were excellent although my only criticism would have to be the possible use of Gould’s squid (bigger and thicker flesh) instead of the more dainty Loligo squid from the Hawkesbury. It was slightly chewy. For mains we tried the ‘Lemon linguini with zucchini, chilli, mint and shaved botarga’ ($26) and it was simply sensational. We also ordered the ‘Beer battered flathead with sea salt chips’ ($29) and it is as good as Bistro Guillaume’s fish and chips in Melbourne, only simpler in presentation. In reality this is the best I have eaten in years.

We ordered a carafe (500ml) of Rimauresq Cru Classé 2007 ($25) to accompany the food. This Côtes de Provence Rosé is fantastic. Typically almost orange in colour, it is dry, complex and a superb food wine. Rimauresq is named after the river, Réal Mauresque, which flows through the property and the wine is one of the few Cru Classé in the Côtes de Provence district. The wine is made from Tibouren, Grenache and Cinsault grapes and bottled at 13% a/vol. Its aromas of ripe citrus are confirmed on the palate with herbaceous, spicy undertones and a long, dry finish and it worked a treat with Justin’s food.

For dessert we ordered the ‘Caramel date tart with burnt butter ice cream and Earl Grey tea syrup’ ($25) and it shone with superb textures and soft, alluring flavours. This is probably Sydney’s best dessert right now! We also tasted the ‘Etch lolly tray’ and it’s a marvellous take on childhood sweets, bringing back memories of forgotten aromas and flavours.

Service is knowledgeable, eminently capable and the perfect balance between friendly and aloof. Value for money is exceptional. Best new restaurant so far in 2008? Probably!

Score: 8/10

For more information or bookings:

Etch Restaurant

62 Bridge Street

Sydney South NSW 2000

Tel.: (02) 9240 1210