Mad Cow
By Franz Scheurer
The ivy complex in Sydney is a concept that almost defies comprehension; a coordinated jumble of bars and restaurants that, despite its enormous size, feels like a home away from home. There is a space that is ‘you’ somewhere in there, just explore until you find it.
I love the modern simplicity of Mad Cow, one of the ivy’s many restaurants. It’s next to the courtyard adorned by a beautiful Japanese maple tree and is an airy, happy space with white and yellow colour scheme and huge overhead lights, everything is bright but soft. The banquettes are comfortable, the tables are generously spaced, it’s never noisy, even when full, professional, courteous staff are smiling and timing’s good; I’m feeling at home already. The menu is an appetizing read and the wine list is extensive.
Start with some freshly shucked oysters with the smell of fresh seawater (the waiter will tell you their daily provenance), they come natural or adorned with Avruga (a manufactured herring product from Spain) and a little dashi.
Next perhaps ‘Golden chicken broth, spicy pork and lemongrass dumpling’ (so good I could order it again and again) or maybe something light like a pretty ‘Salad of baby beetroot, frisée, goat’s cheese, walnuts, chive vinaigrette’.
For mains you have the choice of many different cuts of meat or several seafood dishes, but being at Mad Cow we chose a Wagyu sirloin with fresh spinach and French Fries. The meat, cut quite thin but tender and juicy, is presented with a sauce of your choice, Béarnaise, Chimi Churri, Tarragon Mustard Butter, Green Pepper or Horseradish Cream. All the sauces are good but my favourite has to be the good old-fashioned Béarnaise. Vegetarians aren’t forgotten and the ‘Tunisian vegetable pie, baby bean, mint, pomegranate salad’ looked good.
Finish your meal with a solid serving of cheese and see if you can resist ‘White chocolate nougat cassata, candied orange’!
I love the uncomplicated, happy atmosphere at Mad Cow. I’m impressed that the food does not play lip-service to glitz and glamour but stands alone and shows off fresh produce and great kitchen craft. This is the perfect place for a business lunch, a private tête-a-tête or a languid stay in one of the impossibly deep sofas enjoying a drink.
Score: 8/10
For more information or bookings:
Mad Cow
330 George Street
Sydney NSW 2000
Tel.: 02 9240 3000
The best way to get into the ivy is either via Ash Street (a small arcade) opposite Wynyard Station on George Street, or via Angel Place in Pitt Street.