Bistro Ortolan

By Franz Scheurer

It’s warm, it’s cosy and it almost feels like you’re in the French countryside. Dark crimson walls, beautiful old-fashioned sculptured ceilings, comfortable chairs, an open fireplace, good, generous tableware and enough personal space make you instantly feel at home.

The service is informed and personable without being too familiar, and nothing is too much trouble.

The food is beautifully presented, rich, textured and full of flavour. ‘Seared Breast of Quail and Pithiver of its Braised Leg with Foie Gras and Winter Mushrooms’ pushes all the right buttons with its gelatinous texture and deceptively light jus. ‘Tortellini of Wild Mushrooms and Celeriac with Quail Eggs and Freshly Shaved French Summer Truffles’ is a vegetarian’s delight, although I question the use of French summer truffles at a time when Australian winter truffles are in season and are so much better than the pale, flavour-challenged French offerings. Sometimes French can be too French. I have to single out the quality of the ‘Rillette of Macleay Valley Rabbit with Duck Liver Parfait, Green Apple, Riesling Jelly and Freshly Toasted Brioche’; I love the contrast of the perfectly smooth parfait and the rustic rillettes and the jelly is fabulous. If you like gamey flavours then try ‘Spice Roasted Leg of Cervena Venison with Roasted Baby Vegetables, Spiced Béarnaise and Shiraz Glaze’, while the tenderness of the ‘Roasted Loin of Kurobuta Pork and Braised Neck, with Brussels Sprout Leaves and Roasted Parsnip Velouté’ is a hard act to follow. A side of ‘Brocollini with Anchovy Butter and Fresh Tomato’ is a delightfully light and flavoursome addition to the more substantial main courses.

The timing can be a little slow between courses but the food makes up for it and the desserts are every bit as good as they look. An intelligent wine list, complementing chef Paul McGrath’s food perfectly, adds substantially to the whole experience and value for money is excellent.

Score: 7.5/10

Bistro Ortolan

134 Marion Street

Leichhardt NSW 2040

Tel.: 02 9568 4610