Your first view of The River Club is from the
Zambezi River (although there is road access, the river approach is far more
spectacular), you round a bend and see a row of open-fronted huts raised high
on stilts. The 10 chalets are like well appointed tree houses: three walls
ensure privacy and safety, but the side facing the river has only a railing
(and a roll-down plastic awning to ward off inclement weather)
leaving it completely open to the view, sounds and smells of the Zambezi. Sleeping
in the high, mosquito net-enclosed bed and waking to the trumpeting of
elephants on the opposite bank and the splash of hippos hitting the water is a
potent reminder that you are in Africa. The downstairs bathroom, also open to
the river, makes a sunset bubble bath in the claw-footed tub a mesmerising
experience.
The River Club experience
has a feel of colonial grandeur. One almost expects Bertie Wooster to come
strolling across the lawn; guests are certainly cared for with Jeeves-like
efficiency. Although built in 1998, the main house resembles a grand Edwardian
home, with a library, guest lounge and wide, covered veranda where you can curl
up in a deep wicker chair and stare past the white planters of blood red roses
to the mesmerizing Zambezi wending its way around the islands. There’s a formal
dining room as well, though tables are often set around the beautifully
manicured gardens and presided over by owner Peter Jones, a second generation
Zambian of British decent.
Time moves slowly here and
the cliff-edge pool, the tented beauty lounge or the DNA (‘do nothing
activity’) can easily fill a day. Old-fashioned afternoon tea is served in the
shade of the wide veranda around 4.30pm, rich chocolate cakes, bite-sized
pancakes and light scones with jam and cream appear beside fine porcelain
teacups and dainty linen napkins, before sunset drinks are served cruising up
the river (a chance to view hippopotamus, impala, elephants and an array of
local bird life and amazing African sunsets). Most guests however come to visit
Victoria Falls and, for guests wanting a close-up look, The River Club
arranges morning tea or lunch on Livingstone Island, which isn’t just near
the edge of the falls, it forms part of the rim. Other activities include
flights over the Falls (seeing them from the air is the only way to truly
appreciate their amazing geology), tours of Livingstone’s town centre and
nearby Simonga village (sponsored by The River Club), an hour-long elephant
safari and, for the more adventurous white water rafting, bungy jumping,
abseiling, parachuting and gorge swinging.
http://www.wilderness-safaris.com/camps/camps.jsp?map_id=2563
Bookings through The Classic Safari Company +61 2 9327 0666 www.classicsafaricompany.com.au.
South African Airways flies from Sydney to Johannesburg daily and from
Johannesburg to Livingstone three times a week (Monday, Thursday, Saturday),
Nationwide Airlines has daily flights from Johannesburg to Livingstone.