By Franz Scheurer
Yoshii’s in Pyrmont, run by the extremely talented Ryuichi Yoshii, was, in my opinion, the best Japanese restaurant in Sydney until it so sadly closed almost two years ago. Much to my dismay, Yoshii disappeared from the Sydney dining scene and it seemed that his talents were lost to Sydney diners forever.
However, on The 5th July 2002 Ryuichi Yoshii reappeared with the soft opening of his new “Yoshii Restaurant” followed by an official opening on 11th July 2002.
It was the best news I heard all year.
The restaurant is tiny, warm and welcoming. There are a few tables and, my preferred spot, a few seats at the sushi bar, watching the master at work. There is also a private dining room for six. This is the closest Australia has to the real thing. There is almost as much staff on the floor as there are patrons and the diners are spoiled, pampered and looked after in style. The staff is knowledgeable and versed in Eastern and Western customs. Add a very good and extremely appropriate wine list with good choices by the glass or order one of the many specialty sakes (in your own sake cup, stored on the premises), let the ambience envelope you and wait for the magic to begin.
Yoshii’s food isn’t just good, or great but sensational! An absolute master of his craft with astounding knife skills and an incredible repertoire of taste sensations wrapped in a kaleidoscope of textures and contrasting temperatures.
Try the “Artichoke and Scampi Miso Dengaku”, a warm entrée of artichoke heart topped with a thick miso flavoured with New Zealand scampi, or the “Cedar Smoked Rudder Fish Marinated in White Miso” a dish you can smell long before it reaches the table leaving you breathless with wonder that can only be topped by the “Foie Gras served in Steamed Iceberg Lettuce Leaf”.
Yoshii-san’s sushi and sashimi are the best I have ever tasted, anywhere. There is nothing even close in any restaurant in Australia.
This is, by far, the most exiting new restaurant to open in Sydney in a very long time... and finally, a place for other Australian chefs to eat and learn.
For more information or bookings:
115 Harrington Street
Sydney NSW 2000
Tel.: 02 9247 2566