A Tavola

By Franz Scheurer

The unassuming, dimly lit entrance is easily missed, which is a pity as the restaurant inside is an Aladdin’s Cave of culinary treasures. A long communal table greets you in the top room, cosy, comfortable and not at all daunting like some shared tables can be. In the lower area, out the back, you find a transparent corrugated roof protecting you and a terrific, Italian trattoria style room with a large daily special menu written on a blackboard augmenting the small, printed menu.

Drinks come out fast together with a plate of terrifically light focaccia and a bowl of chilli-laced olive oil, then, after explaining the specials and the menu, they give you time to decide. The menu is very Italian and these guys know what they’re doing, no shortcuts, just the freshest produce presented simply. This is good Italian fare in a casual atmosphere, at a reasonable price with a good, short, Italian-heavy wine list (although I don’t agree with serving white wine at a temperature that feels too warm to the average Australian palate, 14°C they tell me).

Once ordered, the food arrives fast, with the exception of the risotto, which is made to order and takes 20 minutes (I applaud!) The wait staff is well-trained, fast and efficient and everything flows smoothly. The only odd note was a menu description of prosciutto, which turned out to be Serrano jamon.

The fresh pasta is made in-house and the parpadelle with a soulful ragu of white rabbit is a hit. An entrée of Swiss brown mushrooms, lightly roasted with lots of Parmesan, fresh peas and mint also works well and a main course of pork belly with crunchy, salty crackling is wonderfully tender, served with tiny little lentils and cavolo nero. Having such a large specials menu gives chef Eugenio Maiale lots of scope to cook things that are at their best on the day.

A Tavola means ‘to the table’ in other words, the food is ready and all I can say is: Bravo!

Score: 7/10

For more information and bookings:

A Tavola

348 Victoria St

Darlinghurst, NSW 2010

Tel.: (02) 9331 7871

http:// www.atavola.com.au