By Franz Scheurer

Hidden behind Hemmesphere on the 4th floor of the Establishment you find sushi-e, home to some of Sydney’s best Japanese food. Screened off from the cocktail bar area, a rectangular room holds an elevated, rectangular counter, with three chefs working quietly in the centre, showing off their knife skills and sushi-making dexterity. Skill levels are high, the produce is first rate and there are plenty of choices.

As soon as you take your seat at the counter you are offered a wet cloth and the menu, your drink order is being taken and before you know it you feel pampered and relaxed, sipping sake from a tiny bamboo cup or a glass of refreshing Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc from a good and focused wine list.

Head-chef Nobiyuka Ura knows his job and he keeps a tight reign over staff, produce and how things are done. The skill-set behind in the kitchen is very high and it needs to be with everyone on display at all times.

sushi-e offers a great choice of Sashimi, Sushi and Sushi Rolls. Kitchen Appetisers and Salads are followed by Kitchen Mains and a selection of Sweets. The à-la-carte selection of Nigiri Sushi is fabulous and you simply have to try the Spider Roll, a soft-shell crab roll with dry-fried soft shell crab, cucumber, jalapeño mayo, topped with tobiko and chives: it’s sensational! I suggest you start your meal with some ‘Edamame’, fresh sea salted soybeans in the pod, then have some Sushi, Sashimi and the Spider Roll and try the ‘Salt and Pepper Cuttlefish’. If you like a salad then I’d recommend the ‘Tuna Avocado Salad’, simply sashimi-quality tuna and avocado in a mustard and shiso dressing. For mains I love the ‘Nasu Dengaku’, roast eggplant, the ‘Agedashi Tofu’, deep-fired tofu served in a dashi broth and I love the ‘Miso Cod’ despite the fact that it is probably not correct any more to eat an endangered species (Patagonian Toothfish). Their ‘Tempura’ is crunchy and delicate and you can even order Balmain Bug tails made the tempura way. The food really is terrific. It might not be as adventurous as served in some Japanese restaurants around town, but it’s consistently good and traditional food at its best. You know exactly what you’re getting, every time.

A thoughtful sake list, a good wine list and a superb range of local and imported beers complete the picture. Service, both from the chefs and from the floor staff is excellent, friendly and caring. They look and act smart and match the lunch and after-hours business crowd very well. Value for money is good and the ambience is surprisingly relaxing considering the amount of customers, at any given time.

sushi-e’s food is also served next door at Hemmesphere and the bar menu is extensive enough to contain something for every taste. The full bar menu is available till 10.30pm and a smaller, late night menu is available from 10.30pm until closing time.

Score: 8/10

For more information or bookings:

sushi-e

Level 4

252 George Street

Sydney NSW 2000

Tel.: 02 9240 3000