Wine Reviews - July 2009

By Franz Scheurer


Man Oí War Ironclad 2006

This wine from Waiheke Island in New Zealand is a Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot blend and is bottled at 14.5% a/v. Ironclad is from Man Oí Warís steepest, iron-rich, clay hillsides, resulting in a rich, fruit forward, yet elegant Bordeaux-style wine. Dark berries and mushroom compost on the nose opens up to blackberries, tobacco and cigar box flavours with a strong, clean mid-palate and a savoury, woody finish.This is a terrific wine, well worth the effort of searching it out.


Curly Flat 2008 Rosť

One of the few serious rosť wines in Australia this is predominately a food wine. Hailing from the Macedon Ranges this wine is probably made from Pinot Noir fruit and it has that lovely, almost orange colour of a good Rosť de Provance. Itís dry, citrus-zesty and challenging without food and beautifully integrated with lots of rosehip flavours and some lingering persimmon in the background. A wonderful wine at $ 27 per bottle at cellar door.

Available by ringing Curly Flat vineyard on 03 5429 1956


Logan Chardonnay 2008

The fruit is from 930m above sea level and this cool climate Chardonnay shows a lot of stonefruit, fig and a hint of overripe citrus on the nose. On the palate it is fresh, lively and nutty. This is a dry Chardonnay with lots of zesty acidity rounding out the fruit. For RRP $22 this is exceptional value.


Mr. Riggs Shiraz 2007

Still bottled under cork this cracker McLaren Vale Shiraz is full-bodied, 15% a/v, black as the devilís soul, fruit forward, substantial and rather tempting. Aged for 15 months in a mix of new and one year old French and American wood this is a wine for laying down for at least 10 years, but I would not be surprised if it only peaks at 15 years of age. This is a superb example of New World Shiraz and McLaren Vale terroir.

RRP $50 and well worth it at that!


Mosquito Hill Chardonnay 2008

This wine hails from the Southern Fleurieu area of South Australia, from the Mapgiesí Song vineyard on Mosquito Hill Road, Mt. Jagged. It is a dry grown, low yielding vineyard and after barrel fermentation spent 11 months in French oak barriques. The wine maker believes that this method will guarantee a long live and the wine is expected to reach its peak after about 7 years and hold its peak for several years after that. Itís an applaudable aim in a time where sadly, aging becomes less and less fashionable. Drinking it now it is an austere, dry Chardonnay with typical grapefruit aromas and citrus flavours on the palate. It seems to be a little out of balance with the acid being a little too strong right now, but in reality that is exactly what will make this wine age gracefully. At a mere RRP $19 you should go out and buy a couple of cases and put them into the cellar for a few years.

Highly recommended!


Plantagenet Omrah Unoaked Chardonnay 2008

From fruit of the South West corner of Western Australia this unoaked Chardonnay is good enough to almost convince me that unoaked Chardonnays have a place. Itís fruit forward, fresh and quite potent (bottled at 13.5% a/v) but retains some slightly feral characters that are more commonly seen with oaked Chadonnay. I must say I like it, I love its freshness, its citrus aromas and flavours of overripe grapefruit and I would pair it with very lightly battered King Whiting, mayo and chips.

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